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Entry from: Fogo Island, Canada
Entry Title: “Kitiwake Coast”

Entry:

“Hurricane Earl tried to make an appearance at our FREE campsite at Rattling Brook on Green Bay, but only managed a blustery evening and morning with some strong wind gusts. It was warm and a lovely day to fly Piglet as Pooh might say! Hiking up to Rattling Brooks Falls (1km each way) up 206 stairs through a lush moss covered forest was the way we started our morning and well worth it. It is a 800 ft. falls tumbling down the mountainside through many smaller falls and pools leading to the sea. Driving back out of the Baie Verte Peninsula we headed southeast and east to Grand Falls/Windsor and on to Notre Dame Provincial Park. This lead us on the “Road to the Isles” with Twillingate and Fogo Islands as destination points. This whole area consists of many islands that are now accessible by the causeways connecting them. It is unbelievably beautiful and the cottage country of this area. Our day at a high of 28C was but a small taste of how this area could be a real attraction during the warm summer climate. We stopped in Boyds Cove to visit the Beothuck Historic Site and Museum. The Beothuk people who no longer exist made this area one of the only known year round living locations. Luckily the archaeologists ran out of money and only 4 of the 11 building sites have been excavated. The setting was right on the ocean but also had a fresh water creek for drinking, fishing and bathing. Having read in school about the last Beothuck woman who died in 1820, I especially found this exhibit interesting.

Our success with driving to the end of the road to find a camp spot proved itself once again at Durrell. It is a picturesque village sought out by photographers for the traditional NL fishing village scene. We had our FREE camp right on the waterfront surrounded by the rocky shores, beaches, crystal clear water and a sunset to die for. Hiking along the shoreline and up to the tops of the cliffs was the most breathtaking hiking we have done. It was as exhilarating as tightrope walking as we were often only a couple of feet from the precipitous edge. Overlooking the rocky outcrops, small islands, coves and watching the crashing waves 100′ below and picking handfuls of wild blueberries in the glorious 27C sunshine was an extraordinary experience. Wrenching ourselves away we continued to tour the local museum, Auk Island Winery and the town of Twillingate. Funky Puffin and Moose Juice wine followed us to our camper! Gotta love these NL names…Pirates Point, Rumrunners Roost, Old House Cove, Stuckless Road, Blow Me Down Lane and Prides Drung are but a few of the road names and then Stoneville, Run and TooGood Arm are some of the town names that come to mind. Twillingate Lighthouse Lookout afforded us a great view and more hiking but then chose to sit and relax on the beach finding rock biters (Never Ending Story), a sea hag, and a wise tortoise in the shapes of the rocks. As the warm sun moved across the brilliantly blue sky my thoughts drifted to those of you at home making preparations to go back to work and school, something I vaguely remember from a previous life! But I try to keep negative thoughts to a minimum so I returned to my book and nap on the beach. Here we camped FREE for the evening with yet another lovely sunset.

Leaving Twillingate we headed to Fogo Island which is a mere 25km wide. Settled in the 1680′s and remaining relatively isolated, the inhabitants have retained traces of their Elizabethan dialect and in Tilting a strong “Irish brogue”. Before even boarding the ferry to Fogo, we met a local family from Seldom who offered lots of information and fresh well water to top our camper tank. Camping that evening for FREE at Burnt Pt. Lighthouse awakening to a day of touring in Seldom and more local hospitality. The island people had been adversely affected by the cod fishery decline even in the early 1960′s and had a 60% welfare rate. Joey Smallwood brought film crews and said you have a choice of 3 things, 1)Resettle 2) …”
Read and see more at: http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/homeport/1/1284117869/tpod.html

Photos from this trip:
1. “Seldom on Fogo Island”
2. “Beothuk village site”
3. “Beothuk statue”
4. “Durrell”
5. “Fishing”
6. “Hiking in durrell”
7. “Off the cliff”
8. “Hiking view”
9. “Joe Batts Arm, NL”
10. “st day of school”
11. “Rattling Brook Falls”
12. “Stairs to the falls”
13. “French’s Beach”
14. “Long Pt”

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